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Pulling the Engine on a Classic 'Stang

erectorwrecker 016

How To Menu

Procedures.

Make a photo diary as you proceed. Focus on bracketry and hardware etc.
Poke holes in a sheets of labled cardboard to store any removed engine bolts in their respective locations.
Drain coolant from radiator@ petcock.
Remove and plug fuel hose @ pump.
Remove radiator and shroud, trans. cooler lines (and plug) where applicable.
Loosen exhaust manifold to head pipe nuts. An extra long wobble extension and socket can be used from underside later.
Remove accelerator linkage and carbureter. Make a solid gasket from thin cardboard or tape holes to guard against accidently dropping something into the intake.
Unplug or remove alternator harness and engine feed loom. Leave battery cables intact for now.
Remove both heater hoses from engine.
Loosen or remove from bell housing as many bolts (6, usually) as possible that are not accessible from the underside. Trans mod. vac. line on automatics, A/C, and Power steering, Pwr brake where applicable.
I keep bolts separated as to location. Upper engine bay, lower engine bay, and after engine is removed.
Block behind the rear tires and jack the front end up as high as safely possible, on level ground. Place jackstands under frame rail.
Be careful at all times while working under any vehicle. Always think ''Safety First''.
For an automatic trans, remove access cover bolts to remove the four special torque converter retaining nuts.
Bump engine at starter solenoid or at 15/16 crankshaft damper bolt if by hand, to rotate to each torque converter nut. (4) When all converter nuts are removed, push it back towards the transmission.
Remove starter and wire. Check for and unfasten any trans cooler lines if connected to the engine.
Finish removing the bell housing bolts and exhaust @ manifold pipe. Slip exhaust flange retainer off the studs or unbolt headers at top and bottom if so equipped.
Remove motor mount bolts at engine. Remove battery ground cable to engine and also firewall ground.
Drain engine oil.
Take a break and put away most the tools. Locate a large screwdriver.
Place floorjack with board under the trans. oil pan. Use to adjust and keep angles parallel when engine is lifted.
Have a drain pan ready to catch dribblings if trans. dipstick tube is removed (not necessary to remove if you are carefull)
Double check to ascertain if any other physical connections exist and rectify as applicable.
Balance point on most small blocks is between carb mount studs. Accessories at front of engine alters balance point. If not using an engine sling or puller plate, bolt chain across studs as close to manifold as possible. Leave about four inches of slack.
Set engine puller to be as stable as possible with a short (2 or 3 chain links)connected to chain @ manifold carb studs. Use a puller plate if your intake is aluminum.
Hood can be removed, but it is not necessary in most instances if these directions are followed.
Pump ''cherry picker'' a couple of strokes and stop to adjust trans support jack at pan and check for missed bolts etc.
Raise Transmission Jack to keep angles parallel at the rear of engine block. Check and adjust while raising engine in increments. Do not bind up angles between engine/trans. Spacer plate stays on the engine.
When engine begins to float up off its mounts, check the balance point as not too front heavy. Grab and shake/ pull forward on engine in attempt to break free and separate the bell housing. Use the large screwdriver to evenly separate from blocks bell housing alignment dowells if necessary.
Continue to manipulate the engine with the nose tilted slightly up to prevent a water spill from pumps lower hose, (or cap off water pumps outlet).
Slowly and gently coax the engine from car to its resting place on the shop floor with a 4x 4 block of wood to support the oil pan at the rear.
With drain pan under front of engine, raise rear to drain most of coolant from engine block.
Tie transmission bell housing up or support at frame with 2x4 wooden crossmember with bolts placed in bell housing. Slide the heavy torque converter out ot the bell hsg and keep the front side facing downward to prevent a fluid spill. Slip a cap from a spray paint can over the opening to protect against foreign matter entering the converters fluid. Remove jack and lower vehicle back to floor. Clean your mess.

Pulling the Engine on a Classic 'Stang

How To Menu

Procedures.

Make a photo diary as you proceed. Focus on bracketry and hardware etc.

Poke holes in a sheets of labled cardboard to store any removed engine bolts in their respective locations.

Drain coolant from radiator@ petcock.

Remove and plug fuel hose @ pump.

Remove radiator and shroud, trans. cooler lines (and plug) where applicable.

Loosen exhaust manifold to head pipe nuts. An extra long wobble extension and socket can be used from underside later.

Remove accelerator linkage and carbureter. Make a solid gasket from thin cardboard or tape holes to guard against accidently dropping something into the intake.

Unplug or remove alternator harness and engine feed loom. Leave battery cables intact for now.

Remove both heater hoses from engine.

Loosen or remove from bell housing as many bolts (6, usually) as possible that are not accessible from the underside. Trans mod. vac. line on automatics, A/C, and Power steering, Pwr brake where applicable.

I keep bolts separated as to location. Upper engine bay, lower engine bay, and after engine is removed.

Block behind the rear tires and jack the front end up as high as safely possible, on level ground. Place jackstands under frame rail.

Be careful at all times while working under any vehicle. Always think ''Safety First''.

For an automatic trans, remove access cover bolts to remove the four special torque converter retaining nuts.

Bump engine at starter solenoid or at 15/16 crankshaft damper bolt if by hand, to rotate to each torque converter nut. (4) When all converter nuts are removed, push it back towards the transmission.

Remove starter and wire. Check for and unfasten any trans cooler lines if connected to the engine.

Finish removing the bell housing bolts and exhaust @ manifold pipe. Slip exhaust flange retainer off the studs or unbolt headers at top and bottom if so equipped.

Remove motor mount bolts at engine. Remove battery ground cable to engine and also firewall ground.

Drain engine oil.

Take a break and put away most the tools. Locate a large screwdriver.

Place floorjack with board under the trans. oil pan. Use to adjust and keep angles parallel when engine is lifted.

Have a drain pan ready to catch dribblings if trans. dipstick tube is removed (not necessary to remove if you are carefull)

Double check to ascertain if any other physical connections exist and rectify as applicable.

Balance point on most small blocks is between carb mount studs. Accessories at front of engine alters balance point. If not using an engine sling or puller plate, bolt chain across studs as close to manifold as possible. Leave about four inches of slack.

Set engine puller to be as stable as possible with a short (2 or 3 chain links)connected to chain @ manifold carb studs. Use a puller plate if your intake is aluminum.

Hood can be removed, but it is not necessary in most instances if these directions are followed.

Pump ''cherry picker'' a couple of strokes and stop to adjust trans support jack at pan and check for missed bolts etc.

Raise Transmission Jack to keep angles parallel at the rear of engine block. Check and adjust while raising engine in increments. Do not bind up angles between engine/trans. Spacer plate stays on the engine.

When engine begins to float up off its mounts, check the balance point as not too front heavy. Grab and shake/ pull forward on engine in attempt to break free and separate the bell housing. Use the large screwdriver to evenly separate from blocks bell housing alignment dowells if necessary.

Continue to manipulate the engine with the nose tilted slightly up to prevent a water spill from pumps lower hose, (or cap off water pumps outlet).

Slowly and gently coax the engine from car to its resting place on the shop floor with a 4x 4 block of wood to support the oil pan at the rear.

With drain pan under front of engine, raise rear to drain most of coolant from engine block.

Be aware engines are top heavy and are capable of causing great bodily harm, if proper respect and common sense are ignored !!

Shasmu09