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'66 UPPER ARM / DISK BRAKE CONVERSION

PAGE #5

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Tighten spring seat nuts at control arm. Remove the coil spring compressor. Re-install shock absorber and upper mount. Done. About two hours labor.

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Let's start to convert this convert to stop.

Sure am glad I cleaned and painted the spindle, this is going to look nice.

Go get that conversion kit and commence to separate pieces and test-fit components.

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See how well everything fits in place? These did. I smeared a little silicone sealer on spindle and cast steel adapter and plate, then bolted it up. You will need to thoroughly clean brake rotors to remove all traces of protective coating.

Pack your new wheel bearings, install inner bearing and seal. Keep grease off the braking surface.

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Slide rotor assembly onto spindle and install outer bearing, nut, and cotterpin.

Use a threadlock compound on caliper mounting bolts and attach to mounting plate.

Being shorted the brake caliper fluid transfer lines, the lines on calipers pictured, were fabricated by the author. If you fab your own lines, be sure to double flare the ends. Attach brake hose (included) to caliper and to hard line located at frame rail.

Spin rotor and check for rubbing or other malfunctions. Crack r.h. caliper bleeder, keep the master reservoir full, the rear reservoir ''feeds'' the front brakes. Watch bubbles in fluid at calipers, close bleeders when bubbles are all gone, repeat l.h. side.

Check pedal, pump a couple of times and then hold pressure to pedal, release pressure and inspect all connections for possible leakage.

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This car was recently converted to power brakes and will require appropriate master cylinder and the inclusion of a proportioning valve is recommended. 15x7'' Rally wheels with black center caps will give this pony a distinctive appearance.

Time for disk brake conversion so far? Two and a half hours. Master cylinder conversion and proportioning valve estimated labor, probably about an hour .

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